Awesome work on sending Alpha Leather, 32/8b+ in Centennial Glen just recently. It’s a Blue Mountains classic test piece and has some crazy history. Is it something you’ve wanted to climb for a while now?
Thanks! It’s definitely a good one. I’ve tried it on and off in the past with not much luck, so it’s been on the fridge list for quite a while. The business boils down to a couple of quite burly and reachy moves that I’ve always found quite hard. It was cool to come back to it earlier in the year and be able to do a few of the moves that I hadn’t been able to do before.
Alpha Leather started its life as a chipped route in the 90’s and came in at 27/7c. A bit over 20 years ago a bunch of the routes in the Glen that had been chipped got filled in. It made Alpha Leather a ton harder. How do you feel about the ‘filling in chips’ era?
I can see both sides of the arguement. Whilst chipping is not accepted in this day and age, it was common place in the 90s when Alpha Leather was first put up, so in a sense is part of the history of Centennial Glen. I think if a route goes without using the chipped holds, then it should definitely be filled in. With that being said, often a glued in chipped hold is much more ugly and stands out more than the chip itself! Fortunately all of the filled in holds in the Glen are pretty damn hard to spot, so I’m all for the filling.
This is a notoriously bouldery route, with the gyms being closed, how did you get yourself in shape for such powerful climbing?
The bouldery upper crux of Alpha Leather, 32/8b+. Photo Lucas Corroto
Doing a bunch of training on gym rings helped to get a bit stronger in wide positions, which is something I’ve never been great at. The top crux of Alpha Leather involves a compression slap to a poor side pull above your head, and I think the rings helped to keep tension on this move especially. Also, with gyms being closed as well, it has helped to simplify training and be more consistent. There’s less distractions on a fingerboard.
How did it feel to finally clip the anchor? Did you think that would be the go?
It was a funny day actually. The morning was quite chilly and conditions felt great, but then out came the sun. Alpha Leather bakes in the sun from about 9am and you need good conditions for that top boulder. I had one go and couldn’t touch either of the crux moves, so wrote the day off as being too warm. But then the clouds came over and saved the day. I had a couple of chocolate digestives to get psyched, tied in and sent.
What’s next on your project radar?
I’ve put quite a bit of time into Sitting Bull down at Elphinstone of late, it’s another classic but about 10 times the length of Alpha Leather so I’m not sure how much it will translate… With the colder weather upon us, I’m psyched on venturing down to Nowra for some more steep bouldery climbing too.
You’ve recently moved out of a house, into your van and are studying online. What was the thinking in joining the #vanlife life?
I’ve always liked the idea of an off-grid tiny home. In 2018 I travelled around Europe in a van, and after that trip I’ve been psyched on trying ‘#vanlife’ back home in Oz. I bought a little Volkswagen Caddy for Nowra and Grampians trips, but it just didn’t cut the mustard, so I upgraded and moved into a Ford Transit. It’s got all the living essentials, and its been great to be able to park up with some of the best views in the mountains, with climbing right on the door step. Plus, I was trying to find ways to save more for climbing trips, and cutting out rent seemed like a good option!
I started studying my masters online at the beginning of the year, it’s been really nice to park up and jump in the back to study. After the old COVID-19 chestnut appeared, I procrastinated and had second guesses as to whether the whole van life thing was a good idea, but it’s turned out to be a great way to social distance and much more simple than expected. Just need to get a van hangboard and it’s home!