We’ve all been hit by the Captain Fun-Wrecker 19. In Australia, things haven’t spiralled south in the way we have seen in some countries. However, our weekly gym ritual and craggin’ with pals is now just a memory. It sucks. I miss it.
In an effort to add some sparkle and rainbows to all of our lives, we have compiled the psyche of our community. We asked what you’ve set up at your place to maintain your psyche. We wanted to see your setup, your soundtrack, videos, reading material and when things are all open wide again, where are you frothin’ to get back to.
Our idea was compiling all this together would hopefully help get the rest of the community psyched as well.
Here we have, in no particular order, a whole lot of psyche for you all to froth on.
Stay tuned for who we pick as our favourite and will win some brand new Baffle Days apparel!!
Sage G.
1 - Home setup
2 - Sountrack
SchoolBoy Q
Sylvan LaCue
3 - Videos
Splinter by Ben Pritchard - Best Film EVER!!! If this doesn't get you psyched, then your lost.😂
Great Shark Hunt 8a+/8b by Dan Turner - Wicked Good, Ace Boulder!!!
Pretty Strong - Inspiring!!!
Out of Obsession by Dance Turner - Classic.
4 - Reading material
Rock and Ice
5 - When this is all over
Great Shark Hunt 8a+/8b in Swizzy!!
Alpha Leather (32)!!
Grampians!!!
Tom Hodgson
1 - Home Setup
2 - Soundtrack
The soundtrack I specifically have a Spotify playlist called "Climb Harder" It's a mix of Aussie Hardcore, 90's Rap, EDM, Rock and a lil Grime too and songs that i've heard off my favourite climbing films to remind me of the psych! Pretty much every song featured on Jimmy Webb "Possessed" is in the playlist Artists like Beastie Boys, Flume, RATM, Disclosure, Little Simz, ZHU, Slow Thai and too many more
3 - Videos
Mellow Climbing (An absolute must, right?)
Jimmy Webb Possessed (This brings the psyche HARD for hard bouldering and looking for FA's)
Rampage (Who wouldn't want to watch Sharma dominate the US)
Chris Sharma Down Under (Watching Chris Sharma take a whip off the top of Groove Train has to make you want to climb the Taipan)
4 - Reading material
Vertical Life Magazine
Mastermind - Jerry Moffatt (A current classic! Part book, part journaling it really opens up some perspective on all the under-looked parts of climbing, and actual strategies for coming to terms with fear and doubt. With killer stories from amazing climbers!)
5 - When this is all over
What route/boulder/trip you want to do when all this is over Surely 99% of Australians want to head back to the Grampians right? Although, before this all started I had a 3 week trip to NZ booked to get some climbing down in the land of the long white cloud! Does Flock Hill count as actual climbing? Or just whaling up a boulder. But to pick on of each in Aus? Route - Pooferator (Upper Shipley) Boulder to try - Finish of J2 (It's just the catch, right?)
Elliot – @braunwithoutabrain
1 - Home
My very limited set up at home. Bike, ghetto bench (four planks of wood), bosu ball (very flat haha), some free weights, a skipping rope and my new low fi trx straps made of some accessory rope fed through the rafters.
2 - Soundtrack
My own iso dance playlist on Spotify. For some chilled but danceable tunes for keeping the mood high
3 - Reading material
Vertical Life magazine
Make or Break
Blueys guide for projects... also making sure my injury is well healed. It’s been a perfect opportunity for that
4 - Video
Monique Forestier on tiger cat. If that doesn’t motivate you it’s time for the grave. Other favourite YouTube channels;
Dave Macleod (his Scottish accent soothes me to sleep at night)
Mellow (strong dude)
Rumblr
Cameron Maier
Mani the Monkey for technique breakdown
5 - When this is all over
Aron Hailey
1 - Home Setup
Just wherever I decide to hang the portable board! Mostly at home but this tree by the beach comes with a step up log to lend a hand.
2 - Soundtrack
Powercompany
Baffledays 😉
Joe rogan
Trainingbeta
Music
Nick Mulvey
Tom Misch
Tame impala
Sticky fingers
3 - Videos
Chris sharma's Rampage
Kevin Takeshi Smith's Vimeo or anything by him
Ben Cossey's Groove train (maybe the best climbing video ever?)
Mellow climbing
4 - Reading material
The push- Tommy Caldwell
Alone on the wall- Alex honnold
9/10 climbers make the same mistake- Dave Macleod
5 - When this is all over
The rocky mountains- Alberta Canada
Leavenworth - Washington State
Just back to the local crag of Squamish
Kai Mundsinger
1 - Home setup
Finally got around putting this thing up, two boxes of holds are still waiting to be put on it.
Also working on turning ~3m of pine into holds. Not the best wood for that but works.
2 - Soundtrack
You Can't Stop Me - Andy Mineo "Make moves or make excuses"
Hungry - Rob Bailey
3 - Videos
Jan Hojer's training video doing a pinky only front lever
Ben Cossey swearing himself up Groove Train is just too good
4 - Reading material
Research papers on strength training, (finger) tendon stuff etc.
C4HPs instagram posts
5 - When this is all over
I'll have to go Brooyar to do Little Wednesday and after that maybe a trip to the Frankenjura.
Raphaela Wiget + Bill Mansfield
1 - Home Setup
We are on compulsory 2 week quarantine in SA luckily we built this a couple years ago(shout out to the best dad ever!)
2 - Soundtrack
cream on chrome by ratatat - bills fav send song
any upbeat white gurl pop bangers will usually get me hyped
3 - Psyche up videos
comfort zone with jonathan Siegrist and alex honnold
margo hayes sending la rambla and emily harrington sending golden gate
'The Real Thing'
4 - Reading material
rock warriors way
guidebooks for dreaming of future sends
5 - Where to when we’re free
Invisible fist - Grampians
Adrian Mascenon
1 - Home Setup
The only thing we paid for on this wall was the screws. Every other bit of wood was recycled from something else or found on the side of the road - especially the bed slats! (Don't worry, plywood is in on the way).
We were going to wait to move house before building a wall... that didn't happen so now we have a woody in the living room. Zero excuses.
This wall has and adjustable angle from 20 degrees to as steep as you are brave, and folds out of the way when the PlayStation needs a workout.
2 - Soundtrack
3 - Psyche up videos
Rampage - I love this retro film because it shows some of that the strongest climbers in the world, are really still just normal dudes.
The Insiders - Because we're all Inside.
4. Reading material
Lattice Training's blogs and data/research articles. I'm a nerd, so yeah. (https://latticetraining.com/blog)
r/climbharder on Reddit. A worldwide community of crowd sourced knowledge and inspiration! (https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/)
5 - When this is all over
I can't wait to get back to Sissy Crag in the North Shore of Sydney. It's where I first fell in love with climbing, so it only seems fitting to return.
Lee Corbett
1 - Home Setup
2 - Soundtrack
Bouldering Bobat's playlist on Spotify. Really good mix, and heaps of songs so I never get annoyed with rotation.
3 - Videos
Bouldering Bobat
Erik Karlson (somehow gyms in Sweden are still open!)
Magnus Mitbo
Lattice Climbing
Rockentry
Adam Ondra's channel.
4 - Reading material
Don't read anything climbing related. Just read Three Men in a Boat by Jerome K Jerome. If you need a laugh, I recommend it.
5 - When this is all over
I really want to get back to Nomad Bouldering where I normally climb at lunch time. Missing the routine and friendly staff.
Tim Leong
1 - Home Setup
This is my board. It's half a sheet of ply hooked on a pull up / dips frame. The holds are a mix of chopped up hardwood balls from a furniture wholesaler and various bits of scrap.
2 - Soundtrack
I end up listening to Dave Macleod talking about how to hangboard (link) a lot while doing my hangs. Somehow that gets me motivated!
3 - Videos
Some of the videos I come back to for motivation are these shorts on Malcolm Smith (link), Neil Gresham (link) and Jacky Godoffe (link). Also the one of Ned you mentioned is amazing! What a beautiful board!
4 - Reading material
I enjoy reading some of the long articles on UKC like a recent one on Seb Bouin (link).
5 - When this is all over
Super keen to check out Little Babylon in the Darrans at some point, hopefully soon!
Ryan Gaskon
1 - Home Setup
I actually built this wall a little over a year ago when I was in Central Australia and in the time since then I've invested in holds for it. There's no gyms whatsoever in the Red Centre so I figured I might as well make one of my own. It's 4.5 metres wide, 3m high and 45 degrees exactly, and I've got holds from all around the world on it including local manufacturers and World Cup hold companies.
However since the lockdown occurred I've been in the Flinders Rangers National Park and given I don't know when the lockdown will end I had it disassembled, shipped down and I've just finished putting it back up, complete with elephant balls and my hangboard on the back side - working at getting some TRX stuff going as well.
2 - Soundtrack
I've got a public playlist on Spotify that I created for sessions on this wall which has over 120 of my favourite psyche tracks. Lot of Glitch, old school funk and a fair amount of Australian Rap as well. Anything done by Seth Sentry gets me psyched! The playlist is called Chuggy's Climbing Collection if anyone's interested in checking it out.
3 - Videos
I'm fortunate enough to have a few of Big Up productions work on my hard drive - a few old Reel Rock films, First Ascent and King Lines. The Dawn Wall is just the absolute best climbing film I've ever seen, while closer to home the film Smitten is a crack up and The Lorax Project by my good friend Pete about climbing and BASE jumping off a peak in Tassie is pretty cool as well. Meanwhile on YouTube Mellow Climbing puts out heaps of good content, while Eddy Mofardin's channel has heaps of classic hard climbs at my favourite climbing area in the country - Arapiles.
4 - Reading material
Mostly I've just been reading guidebooks. I had only just started a 6 month outdoor climbing trip when the lockdown hit, so I've been scouring the Moonarie, Arapiles and Blue Mountains guides to pick out projects for when the lockdown lifts and I can resume my trip
5 - When this is all over
I'm beyond psyched to get back on Punks In The Gym at Arapiles. I'd only just started working it and figuring out the moves when the campground was closed and I had to leave. It's such a legendary climb and taught me so much about the intricacies of outdoor climbing even in just the short time I had on it. I've been dreaming about the moves at night so it's the first thing I'm getting back on when the lockdown lifts!
Ash Thomas
1 - Home Setup
2 - Soundtrack
Anything as long as there is coffee.
3 - Videos
Mellow on youtube
Isaac Buckley on Vimeo
Anything Webb or Fultz
4 - Reading material
Jerry Moffatt Mastermind and Revelations
Baffledays
Power Company Climbing
5 - When this is all over
Body Battle, Eyes on the pies and unleashed.